These motorcycles played multiple parts in wartime, from mostly being used for communications, transport, and restricted combat to tactical assault missions in World War

2. This along with the regular wartime motor pool produced thousands of men qualified as mechanics. At the finish of World War 2 a large quantity of these returning GI’s went into business using their newly Found mechanical skills. Generally went into the automotive restore business, however, a generous crowd focused on the motorcycle part of the business.

A portion of these returning soldiers turned to hot rods and motorcycles seeking the excitement they had experienced in wartime. The enormous surplus of military Harley Davidson motorcycles provided a readily accessible, and low-cost, marketplace for these excitement seekers. From the very start these new-found bikers started modifying the large, weighty, function oriented and styled military motorcycle, Discarding parts and accessories not definitely indispensable meant for starting, riding, and stopping the motorcycle. Saddlebags, windshields, large bulky headlights, and mirrors were detached.

The mirrors and lights were replaced with newer and sleeker styles. The old unexciting floorboards were replaced with forward foot pegs. Front fenders were detached and the rear fenders were either detached or Chopped down, leaving merely enough to accommodate a
passenger on top of the rear tire. The huge, primary front tires and gas tanks were detached and replaced with much smaller ones. Exhaust systems were replaced with straight
pipes. All of this was completed mostly to build the bike lighter for street and dirt racing. The large leather and spring suspended saddle type seat was replaced with a
smaller padded seat to allow the rider to ride Dropped down on the bike. The “sissy” bar or custom backrest became standard equipment.

The custom, and chopper type motorcycles, as well as, the biker lifestyle were born! The end result of all of this modification of the military motorcycle was an intact industry catering to this phenomenon. Chop shops and custom bike builders sprang up all over the country. A person could bring in a stock Harley Davidson motorcycles to one of these shops and, depending on how much cash they wanted to waste getting the desired look and style,
ride out with a completely customized or absolutely chopped bike.

All removable parts are detached, as well as the engine and transmission. The initial frame is then cut down, or chopped up, and welded back together resulting in a dropped down and longer frame. This method of customizing led to the bikes being called choppers. Chopper builders have in big part favored Wide rear tires, a rigid looking frame, and an unique or replica air cooled v-twin engine. Performance and custom, ordinarily chromed parts, are then added. The chopper inevitably has a long, or raked, extended front fork. Springer and Girder front-ends were the forks of preference to accomplish this raked look.

These front ends are still widely used.

Although these bikes are somewhat less responsive to handling and bear a heavier feel at sluggish speeds and on curves they in fact handle better than their stock front-end counter parts at top or cruising speeds. Choppers have maintained a loyal following and legends in the building of these motorcycles have evolved. One shining example is Jesse G. James’ West Coast Choppers. Mr. James has been profitable in producing, and branding, his own style of unique and very expensive chopper style motorcycles.Multiple chopper and biker related businesses have in addition came into being. These include everything from the merchandising of motorcycle riding apparel and custom parts and accessories to bars and clubs catering to the chopper and other biker enthusiasts.

Steve Colwell
“Biker Steve”
http://hog-crazy.Freehostia.Com

A BRIEF HISTORY OF CHOPPER MOTORCYCLES is a post from: Lanka Guardian

People have all different reasons for wanting to buy a motorcycle. The fun, the thrill, the money. Looking to save money, then a bike may be the answer your looking for. Compared to large cars, trucks, and SUVs, motorcycles can be substantially more cost effective. Motorcycle insurance is cheaper, and maintenance on a motorcycle is a lot less than on other vehicles.

It has been said that motorcycles are much more cost effective then a family size car or SUV. A good used bike can cost a fraction of what you would pay for a car or truck. Due to the fact that there is less weight involved, including the passenger or passengers, less fuel is needed to propel the machine forward. Meaning that less fuel will be consumed, thus saving money. Obviously with the size of a bike being so much smaller than another vehicle, it will take less money to fill the tank. Of course, there are other factors that need to be considered. Is this your primary vehicle, can you ride all year round or only seasonally? But for the most part if commuting by bike it will save you some money. Do your homework so that you can find the cheapest motorcycle insurance available. That will help you save even more.

Another thought is that if you have to pay for parking whether on the street, in a parking garage, over time that money adds up. A motorcycle, because of the amount of space needed to park, could possibly park in an alley or ever on a sidewalk, depending on the laws in your area.

Not everyone can have a motorcycle as a primary vehicle. Bikes are not the best way to transport families. It is hard to fit the kids, spouse the family dog plus all luggage needed on the back of a bike. But if this is the case, a motorbike as a second vehicle has advantages. Commuting to work on a bike or while running errands saves a lot of wear and tear on the primary vehicle, perhaps prolonging the life of the car by a couple of years. Maintenance for a bike tend to be lower than for larger automobile.

Another factor some take in to consideration is time. Things are changing in the world today. Some states have what is known as lane sharing. Smaller vehicles have the ability to pass by slower moving, or stopped vehicles. More than one automobile shares the same lane on a multi lane road. The advantage to this is that during rush hours or when traffic in congested, as compact car, or bike continues on, meaning the other traffic may not take as long to start moving along again quicker then if all traffic was stopped or slowed.

Sometimes we all have to put aside things we want to do, because the money just is not there. Families do not necessarily pack the car up and take off like they used to. Gas just cost too much these days. Motorcycles, using less fuel, make it the perfect way to get away, even if only for a couple of hours. The open road, a few hours, and it are like a mini holiday. It is a great stress reliever and easy on the pockets.

Saving money by riding a motorcycle could be the way to go for you. There are so many positive sides to a bike. But like everything, there is always a downside. For example, some people live in an area where they would not be able to ride a bike all year. That may require they have two vehicles, which may not be feasible for them. But it may be just the money saving idea that will work for you. Besides, everyone loves the idea of riding on a bike along the open road with the wind whipping around you. Saving money may be one reason to look into buying a motorcycle, but the added bonus will then be the thrill of owning one.

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Saving Money By Riding A Motorcycle is a post from: Lanka Guardian

Wearing a motorcycle helmet reduces the chances of death or injury in a motorcycle crash , The two major causes of motorcycle accidents in the United States are: motorists pulling out or turning in front of motorcyclists and violating their rights-of-way and motorcyclists running wide through turns. The former is sometimes called a SMIDSY, an acronym formed from the motorists’ common response of “Sorry mate, I didn’t see you”.The latter is more commonly caused by operating a motorcycle while intoxicated.Motorcyclists can anticipate and avoid some of these crashes with proper training, increasing their conspicuousness to other traffic, and separating alcohol and riding.

The United Kingdom has several organisations which are dedicated to improving motorcycle safety by providing advanced rider training over and above what is necessary to pass the basic motorcycle test. These include the Institute of Advanced Motorists (IAM) and the Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents (RoSPA). Along with increased personal safety, riders with these advanced qualifications often benefit from reduced insurance costs.

In South Africa, the Think Bike campaign is dedicated to increasing both motorcycle safety and the awareness of motorcycles on the country’s roads. The campaign, while strongest in the Gauteng province, has representation in Western Cape, KwaZulu Natal and the Free State. It has dozens of trained marshals available for various events such as cycle races and is deeply involved in numerous other projects such as the annual Motorcycle Toy Run.

An MSF rider course for novicesMotorcycle Safety Education is offered throughout the United States by organisations ranging from state agencies to non-profit organisations to corporations. Most states use the courses designed by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF), while Oregon and Idaho developed their own. All of the training programs include a Basic Rider Course, an Intermediate Rider Course and an Advanced Rider Course.

In the UK (except Northern Ireland) and some Australian jurisdictions, such as Victoria, New South Wales, the Australian Capital Territory, Tasmania and the Northern Territory, it is compulsory to undertake a rider training course before being issued a Learners Licence.

In Canada, motorcycle rider training is compulsory in Quebec and Manitoba only, but all provinces and territories have Graduated Licensing programs which place restrictions on new drivers until they have gained experience. Eligibility for a full motorcycle licence or endorsement for completing a Motorcycle Safety course varies by province. The Canada Safety Council, a non-profit safety organisation, offers the Gearing Up program across Canada and is endorsed by the Motorcycle and Moped Industry Council. Training course graduates may qualify for reduced insurance premiums

Motorized bicycle kit:
http://flmotorbikes.com/

Motorized bicycle:
http://www.flmotorbikes.com/contactpolicy.htm

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Motorcycle Saftey is a post from: Lanka Guardian

So to begin with, figuring out that, a superior point to do is to preserve your motorcycle absent from the other automobiles (substantial buses, trucks, 4×4s and so forth) as significantly as possible. This suggests riding to the Significantly left as probable, maintaining a good eye on mirrors and oncoming targeted traffic, and not swerving all about the put as you get distracted by the stunning scenic views!

Secondly, know that even though there are ‘road laws’ in Thailand, they’re not often followed to the letter. You may be happily going about your small business (on the left facet) with the flow of targeted traffic and observe other motorcycles overtaking you on the left too! That’s regular also – while about as serious as it gets, mainly late at night!

Voluminous aftermarket motorcycle exhausts can help other people on the road to see riders.

Classic Motorcycles – The Triumph Trident

To start with, the styling was believed to be a tiny “off”. The bread bin design tank with integral rubber mouldings was not to everyone’s taste in equally style and look. In simple fact Triumph remodelled the tank at the request of the American marketplace, changing the instead ugly rectangular bread bin form for an individual of the tear drop wide variety. Triumph motorcycles look best by installing Akrapovic.

Even so, this was not adequate. Early bikes acquired a popularity for unreliability, not the sort of commence Triumph desired or desired if they had been to manage their place as planet major producers.

Motorcycles – You Gotta Know When to Tow ‘Em

If you previously have a flat trailer, you can invest in just the kit to produce a motorbike trailer from your flat trailer. This is frequently a long metal channel that will screw on the best of your flat trailer the place your bike wheels will be secured for the trip. Furthermore, you will need to have tie down anchors to retain the bike upright and totally secure the bike.

If you do not want your bike to get broken by street debris and the elements, a trailer pod could be your greatest wager. A motorcycle trailer pod protects your bike by absolutely enclosing it in a capsule that you can customize. Do you have additional than a person bike? There are pods bid adequate to haul two cruising bikes.

Iron Horse Motorcycles – A Type Statement!

Tejas-Rigid

Outlaw-Soft tail

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Three Ways To Riding Motorcycles In Metropolitan Areas is a post from: Lanka Guardian

Friction drive motorized kits offer far and away, the simplest installation, of any bicycle drive approaches. After all, all you have to do is to do is to get the friction roller in contact with the tire at a right angle. The installation will include a mounting bracket (typically, a ‘U’ shaped bracket) clamped to the rear seat stays, bolting the drive channel to the mounting bracket, attaching the support rods to the bike in the vicinity of the rear axle, and to the drive channel, installing the throttle and (optional) kill switch, and routing the throttle cable/kill switch wire from the motor to the handlebars. This simple installation also means that a friction drive is the easiest drive type to switch from one bike to another.

Tire Wear and Roller Slippage: A properly installed and adjusted friction drive will not wear the tire much more than other drive types. There will be some additional wear, but, running a tire in excess of a thousand miles is not unusual. When the road surface will be wet, some care must be taken when using a friction drive. You do not want ‘jack-rabbit’ starts, for instance. You want to accelerate more slowly. More than with other drive types, the tire pressure impacts drive performance and use – for a standard, 26 inch, 2-1/8 inch ‘balloon’ tire, you should keep the driven tire at about 50 psi. When the road surface is wet, you will need to add additional roller pressure, so that the friction roller presses ‘into’ the tire approximately a quarter inch, or even a little more. When the road surface is dry, the roller pressure can be less. There’s a trade-off involved with roller pressure. Increased roller pressure reduces slippage, but, it decreases performance (and fuel economy.) In a nutshell, you will want to adjust your tire and roller pressure to allow maximum performance, with the least slippage for the conditions. Time, and experience, will soon teach you what ’settings’ you will need to use. There is one note of caution though – IF the roller is slipping, let off the gas, otherwise, a spinning drive roller could chew a hole in the tire…

FAQ
How fast will I go with a given drive roller? The maximum speed depends almost entirely on the engine speed and the roller diameter. Use the GearRat gearing/speed calculator to determine the maximum possible speed for the engine/roller combination you have. Other factors which can impact the actual top-end speed, are the tire type, tire pressure, and roller pressure. Smooth tires have better performance (and do NOT result in reduced traction, even when wet, on the road.) Tires with lower rolling friction will have better performance than those with higher rolling friction. Increased tire pressure results in lower rolling friction, which results in better performance. And, of course, wind resistance plays a factor, as does the weight of the bike and rider.

Finally, there is one additional point to remember: Even though a larger roller diameter increases the top speed, it also reduces the acceleration (and hill climbing ability) by exactly the same amount.
.
Wait a Minute! Doesn’t tire size play a factor in calculating the top speed? With friction drives, No, it does not. With all other drive types, tire size does matter. Here’s why tire size doesn’t matter with a friction drive: The speed of the tire rotation in RPM is related to bike speed, but, it is really the speed of the circumference of the tire, in miles per hour, which is directly related to bike speed. After all, the tire is in physical contact with the road, and if there is no slippage, the tire circumference speed and the bike speed HAVE to be equal. Likewise, if there is no slippage, the tire circumference speed and the roller circumference speed MUST be equal, because THEY are in direct contact. Think of it this way – Essentially, the tire is just a transfer roller (or idler wheel,) between the drive roller and the road… A smaller tire would spin faster than a larger tire, but, since the circumference of the smaller tire is proportionally less, (by exactly the same ratio as the tire diameter, and the RPM increase,) there is no difference in bike speed.
.
My friction Drive is vibrating a lot! What’s the problem? It could be several things. First, check the bearings, to make sure that the drive roller itself isn’t vibrating. Make sure that the wheel is round – an out-of-round wheel can bounce you around. While an out-of-true wheel (side-to-side) could introduce a little vibration, it will definitely wear faster, and will soon become out-of-round because of this. The third common factor in vibration is the tire type – a smooth tire will have virtually no vibration, but a knobby mountain bike tire can cause a LOT of vibration. Really, any repeating tread pattern in contact with the drive roller can lead to vibration. If you occasionally need to go off road, and don’t want a slick tire, get a tire with an inverted tread pattern which has the center portion smooth. The Continental Town and Country tire or Serfas Drifter tire offer low vibration and good off-road performance. Refer to this thread for more information.
Links Bicycle engine:
http://www.flmotorbikes.com/apps/webstore/products/show/1924951
Home page Links Motorized bicycle:
http://flmotorbikes.com/

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Turn Your Bike Into A Motor Bike is a post from: Lanka Guardian

There’s no doubt that riding a motorcycle is lots of fun. Hitting the road on your motorcycle is almost like being on vacation. Leave your troubles behind, feel the sun on your face and the wind at your back. It’s about the closest you’ll get to heaven on earth. There’s something indescribable about being out in the fresh air. When riding the motorcycle, you’re more in touch with everything and everyone. You take the time to explore new areas and get in touch with the local ambiance, enjoying the ride to the fullest extent.

Riding a motorcycle is also much less expensive than driving a car. No matter what kind of car you drive, with gas prices over $4 per gallon, the saving is significant. Motorbike insurance comes a lot cheaper than car insurance too.

On the down side, motorcycles can be pricey, with some costing more than some cars. Would you ever consider a scooter instead? Scooters are a subclass of motorcycles with a different design and wheel width. They share many of the same benefits. If you are a Harley or a Gold Wing fan, you’re probably laughing right now about the idea of getting a scooter.

Consider some of the benefits before you totally write off the idea of a scooter. They’re different than a motorcycle, but they’re just as much fun. Scooters cost much less than most motorcycles, making them very affordable. You’ll be able to select from many sizes and models. You’ll have no problem finding the one that fits your style and your pocketbook. Call a few motorcycle insurance companies to make sure their quote is part of your cost analysis.

If you’ll be taking long rides or driving on freeways, you’ll want to consider a larger, more powerful scooter. If you want the extra power, there are plenty of scooter to choose from to meet your needs. A smaller scooter may be just what you want if you’ll be traveling short distances in light traffic. The smaller scooters sometimes don’t require a special driver’s license, depending on the state. Check the regulations in your state to be certain.

Scooters can be easier to drive as well. They are automatic, so no need to shift gears. Getting on and off the scooter is also easier for most. There is usually storage under the seat and room for a storage container in the back as well, so there’s plenty of room to pack your gear.

If you’ve ridden both a motorcycle and a scooter, you will notice a difference in how people react to you. It may be a stereotype, but many people are still intimidated by motorcyclists, thinking perhaps of the motorcycle gangs of the past.There is a completely different reaction to a scooter rider. People generally break out in a smile and wave. Somehow, the difference in reactions doesn’t seem right, but that’s how it is.

All states have laws governing insurance for scooters. Most states require liability insurance for bodily injury and property damage on all motor driven cycles, including scooters.Scooters can be legally operated only when they carry the minimum legally mandated liability insurance and are registered and titled.

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A Scooter Instead Of A Motorcycle? is a post from: Lanka Guardian

MOTORCYCLE TYRE CODE

190 / 50 ZR 17 (73W) TL

Shown above is a typical code for the rear tyre of a larger capacity motorcycle. Below is an explanation of each element.

190
Width of the Tyre – Measured across its widest point in millimetres

50
Aspect Ratio – The aspect ratio is the height of the tyre’s sidewall in relation to its width (shown as a percentage). So with this example, the sidewall height will be 50% of 190 millimetres = 95 millimetres.

Z
Speed Rating – In this particular tyre code the ‘Z’ is one of two speed ratings. Although the ‘Z’ indicates the tyre is suitable for speeds over 240 kph (149 mph), it doesn’t tell us the maximum permissible speed. An additional speed rating, shown in parenthesis towards the end of the tyre code, will give this information. Both should be used in combination.

Other speed ratings:

R = 170 kph (106 mph)
S = 180 kph (112 mph)
T = 190 kph (118 mph)
U = 200 kph (124 mph)
H = 210 kph (130 mph)
V = 240 kph (149 mph)
Z = Over 240 kph (149 mph)
W = 270 kph (168 mph)
Y = 300 kph (186 mph)

R
Construction Type – R = Radial construction. B = Bias-Belted construction.
Note: If omitted, the tyre will be cross ply construction.

17
Wheel Rim Diameter – This is the wheel diameter the tyre fits, measured in inches.

73
Load Index – To find the actual weight the number represents, you’ll need to refer to a tyre ‘Load Index’ table. With this example, 73 = 365 kg (805 lbs). Most manufacturers also state the maximum load in kilograms and pounds somewhere else on the tyre sidewall, so eliminating the need for a ‘Load Index’ table. This may be an important consideration when your bike is heavily loaded during motorcycle tours.

W
Speed Rating – Usually shown in parenthesis with the load index number. The load applied to the tyre has an effect on its maximum speed, that’s why the two are shown together. With this example, the maximum speed for the tyre will be 270 kph (168 mph) when at its maximum load of 365 kg (805 lbs). When not under maximum load the tyre can be safely operated at higher speeds. In the unlikely event you regularly ride at speeds exceeding the speed rating of your own tyres, contact the tyre manufacturer for advice, or refer to the ETRTO guidelines (European Tyre and Rim Technical Organisation).

TL
TL = Tubeless.
TT = Tubetype (an inner-tube must be used).

OTHER TYRE MARKINGS

Direction of Rotation Arrow – The tyre must rotate in the direction of the arrow when the motorcycle is moving forward.

Date of Manufacture – Usually shown as a 4 figure number. The first two digits represent the week of manufacture, the second two digits represent the year of manufacture. Example: 5107 will mean the tyre was produced in the 51st week of 2007 (December, 2007). Example: 0611 will mean the tyre was produced in the 6th week of 2011 (February, 2011).

Note: Tyre rubber will degrade over time, even when not fitted to a vehicle. Although there’s no hard and fast rule about how old is too old, it’s generally accepted that tyres should be replaced 5 or 6 years from their date of manufacture.

TWI (Tread Wear Indicator) – Most motorcycle tyres have wear bars located inside the tread grooves. The wear bars are raised about 2 mm above the bottom of the tread groove and positioned at various places around the tyre. When the tyre has worn level with the wear bars it should be replaced. A small triangle on the sidewall is often used to show their position.

M/C – Suitable for motorcycle use.

MAX. PSI – The maximum pressure the tyre can be inflated to in pounds per square inch.

MAX. BAR – The maximum pressure the tyre can be inflated to in Bar. This is the standard unit of pressure in most European countries outside the UK. If you ride on motorbike tours in Europe, it will be useful to know the PSI equivalent (1 bar = 14.50 psi).

E Mark. – Tyres sold in Europe must comply with European standards and be marked with an ‘E’ code. The number that follows this letter will indicate the country that has approved the tyre for road use. The American equivalent is the DOT code (Department of Transport).

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Understanding Motorbike Tyre Codes is a post from: Lanka Guardian

Motorcycle Road Trips in North Florida: Jax Beach to Fernandina is a post from: Lanka Guardian